The first installment of my Paris guidebook: A Perfect Day series.
My ideal day, start to finish (where I’d eat, shop, and stop), organized by neighborhood.
Pull each guide and group according to your preference for a full trip itinerary, mapped by MArGe.
I’m partial to the Left Bank; it’s quieter, ever so slightly removed from the bustle, but close enough to be walking distance to all the main attractions. On the south side of the Seine, I find lesser-known boutiques; it’s polished but less about the scene than, say, the Marais. I toggle between the 6th and 7th arrondissements, part of the classic Rive Gauche world (think intellectual, literary, and quietly cool).
If the Right Bank is style, then the Left Bank is substance.
Whether it’s your first, second, or eleventh time in Paris, this is a day worth doing. It never gets old. In fact, it only gets better.
A Perfect Day on the Left Bank
Every morning in Paris should start with a croissant, without exception.
Start your day at Boulangerie Poilâne.
Go early to grab a warm croissant, a loaf of fresh country sourdough (which I brought back to London on my last trip, but ate most of on the Eurostar home), and my personal favorite, the butter Sablé cookies (they didn’t even make it to the train).
If you’re a Gluten-Free gal (I apologize in advance for yucking your yum, but, respectfully, yuck!), try Copains.
What the baked goods may lack in flavor is made up for in aesthetic. Copains may be the chicest bakery I’ve ever stepped foot in (and really, the pain au chocolat didn’t look half bad.)
To round out your breakfast, pop into any fruit stand for some fresh orange juice. The abundance of fresh OJ might be the most overlooked delicacy of Paris.
Well-caffeinated and ready to shop, these are the buzzy and under-the-radar shops you should check out:
Shade, Sabbia Rosas, and Saint Laurent Babylone are all on the same few blocks. (Directly across the street from Copains or a 5-minute walk from Poilane.)
Ready-to-wear, accessories, unique items, and vintage.
Luxury lingerie, silk slip dresses, tutu skirts, and white camisoles.
YSL’s library concept curated by Anthony Vaccarello. File under: DO NOT SKIP.
Start your walk towards Le Bon Marché. On your way, be sure to stop in:
This small boutique is making waves on niche corners of the internet. Their coveted cotton pajama sets and simple button-downs start at around 400euros, but are flying off the shelves at an unprecedented rate. My friend Chessy considers this a must-stop, and I agree, even if you’re not shopping. The interior is gorgeously appointed, the shopping bags are so cool I almost considered shelling out just to own one, and their assortment is, unfortunately, gorgeous. Let this be a lesson to all that retail aesthetic really matters. File under: DO NOT SKIP
Colorful, Mediterranean homewares and upholstery designed by Pierre Sauvage.
TIMING DISCLAIMER: You need at least 2 hours to properly skim LBM. To really shop, I’d budget a bit more time. You must make it here BEFORE lunch ( which you need to be at no later than 1:30 pm), so plan accordingly.
No one wants to try on clothes after a basket of French bread and a heap of chocolate mousse.
The crème de la crème of department stores. European department stores are exemplary for many reasons, but LBM is the crown jewel of the bunch. I have clocked more hours than I’m willing to admit here, both studying the selling floor and sifting through the endless racks. I return time and again for a few reasons: the 2nd floor papier (a dream for a papergoods enthusiast), the center carousel concept (its theme rotates quartly and overtakes the store- meaning there is always new product to explore. The farm theme they have going now is one of the best I’ve seen, second to the Jean Julien takeover), the mens floor (be sure to check out the subway shoe display), and the childrens toy floor is darling (take a spin through while you wait to get your VAT back).
Now that you’ve worked up an appetite, it’s time to settle in for the best meal in Paris. Be sure to snap a picture of the LBM escalators on your way out.
A 5-minute walk from LBM is my favorite meal in Paris: Le Petite Lutecia. It’s not fussy or fancy. You don’t need a reservation. It’s quinessential Parison brasserie dining, and it’s downright delicious. BUT they close at 3 pm, so get there by 1:30 pm at the latest.
Let’s discuss the order. You’re starting with radishes and butter (all the while telling yourself that this raw vegetable slathered in salt might as well be a crudité - healthy!), next comes a full baguette of crusty French bread, a crisp Coke, and a glass of white wine. For your entrée, the miso-glazed salmon is a must. It may seem like a weird order for Paris, but please, trust me. I would never order this somewhere else, but I dream of it. The rigatoni morales is also incredible. Plus a side of mashed potatoes, because duh. You’ll be so full you won’t want dessert, but you’re getting it. I recommend the chocolate mousse, the creme brule, or the simple vanilla ice cream. Wash it down with a double espresso because the day isn’t over yet.
Satiated (and perhaps a bit buzzed), head back to Le Bon Marché. This time you’re entering La Grande Épicerie across the street. Stopping here hungry is torture, which makes it the perfect post-lunch pop-in.
This gourmet grocer is top ranking for a reason. I understand you’re not in Paris to shop for groceries. Who is? But if you’re a foodie or aesthete, consider this a must-stop. Grab some snacks for a picnic along the Seine, a jambon buerre if you’re partial to a lunch on the go, or a few sticks of Maison Bordier- the It Girl of French butter right now. (Vacuum seal them at the check-out till and pack them in your luggage. Freeze at home to have French butter at your fingertips or to gift to foodie friends.)
If you’re a homewares afficando, you’ll find the interior design floors above the La Grande Épicerie enlightening. Even better, you can pop across the bridge into LBM to grab that last item you were debating getting at lunch!
Beat the post-lunch slump by staying on your feet. Grab another coffee and walk 7 minutes from LBM to Musée Rodin.
I’ve been to all the major museums in Paris at least twice, and I think it’s important to incorporate a small dose of culture into your day when traveling- whether that’s stopping into an old church or climbing to the top of a clock tower. That being said, I consider myself a museum skimmer at best. Navigating the crowds of the Louvre is way above my pay grade, but Musée Rodin and Musée D’Orsay are a delight and worth a turn about.
Musée Rodin is more a sculpture garden than a stuffy museum. The 3-hectare plot of land behind the mansion is my favorite place to stroll through, note world-renowned sculptures like The Thinker, The Kiss, and The Gates of Hell among the wild roses as you walk through. Auguste Rodin actually lived in the Hôtel Biron, the mansion that is the museum now. (Closed on Mondays.)
A 4-minute walk from Musée Rodin is Barthélémy.
I would be remiss not to mention the true pinnacle of French culture, the local fromagerie, especially after sending you to a sculpture garden. This gem is a cheese-lover’s dream, not viral or overhyped or played out in capacity. File under: DO NOT SKIP.
A 10-minute walk from cheese heaven is another sort of paradise.
A robust collection of quality canvas bags in interesting shapes and sizes, with gorgeous personalization options. The bags here are durable, timeless, and somehow always feel fresh year after year. The visual merchandising here is also something to behold.
The L/UNIFORM store leaves you at the edge of the Seine.
Choose your own adventure from here or do them all:
Option 1: A picnic along the Seine. Grab a bottle of prosecco, enjoy the cured meats from your earlier stop at La Grande Épicerie, and the cheese from Barthelemy.
Option 2: Less than a 10-minute walk away is Musée D’Orsay, a personal favorite. Their curation is among my favorites in the world; there you’ll find Monets, Degas, Renoirs, and Van Goghs. PRO TIP: Grab a glass of champagne at the rooftop bar for a view of Paris from above.
Option 3: Cross the Seine, walk through Le Jardin des Tuileries, and head to LouLou (closest option), Hotel Costes, or Bar Hemingway in the Ritz for a drink. (Unpopular opinion, but Bar Hemingway is an easy miss. Drinks are fine at best, history is cool, but the interiors leave much to be desired. And if you get there after 5 pm, forget it altogether.)
Option 4: Head home to change and scroll before a fun dinner.
That concludes A Perfect Day on the Left Bank, mapped by
MArGe.